Fixed rope
In climbing and mountaineering, a fixed-rope (or fixed-line) is the practice of securing in-situ anchored static climbing ropes to assist any following climbers (and porters) to ascend more rapidly—and with less effort—by using mechanical aid devices called ascenders.[1][2] Fixed ropes also allow climbers (and porters) to descend rapidly using mechanical devices called descenders.[1][2] Fixed ropes also help to identify the climbing route in periods of low visibility (e.g. a storm or white-out).[1][2] The act of climbing up a fixed rope is also called jumaring, which is the name of a type of ascender device,[3] or jugging in the US.[4]
Fixed ropes are put in place by the lead climbers, and may or may not be removed as they descend after completing the route.[5][6] For popular Himalayan climbing routes, fixed ropes may be put in place to last the season (e.g. the Khumbu Ice Fall).[7][8] While storms can strip a mountain of fixed ropes that have been left behind, the existence of old—and often unreliable and dangerous—fixed ropes along popular climbing routes, is a concern in climbing.[5][9] On popular European, and latterly American, climbing routes, the fixed rope can be replaced by permanent metal cables, which are called 'via ferrata' routes.[10]
Fixed ropes are not used in 'alpine style' mountaineering as they are considered a form of aid climbing.[1][2][6] They are used on big wall climbing routes where it is common for the non-lead climber(s) to jumar up on fixed ropes to save time and effort,[4] and where the re-belay technique is often used to reduce wear on fixed ropes.[11] Guided climbing expeditions to Himalayan peaks such as the eight-thousanders, often set up extensive networks of fixed ropes on steep or icy sections of the route to help their clients and allow porters and sherpas move quickly along the route.[12][13] For example, on the Hillary Step of Mount Everest, a fixed rope is used for client safety, however, this can cause bottlenecks at a location that is in the death zone.[12][13]
See also[edit]
References[edit]
- ^ a b c d Soles, Clyde; Powers, Phil (June 2003). "A Matter of Style: Expedition, Capsule, Alpine, Extreme Alpine, and Combined". Climbing: Expedition Planning. Mountaineers Books. pp. 25–31. ISBN 978-0898867701. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ a b c d The Mountaineers (2018). "Chapter 21: Expedition Climbing". Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (9th ed.). Quiller Publishing. pp. 456–469. ISBN 978-1846892622.
- ^ Ellison, Julie (6 May 2016). "Learn This: How to Jumar a Rope". Climbing. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ a b Synott, Mark (23 February 2022). "Everything You Need to Know for Your First Big Wall". Climbing. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ a b Prasain, Sangam (3 December 2022). "Ropes on climbing routes litter Mount Everest". The Kathmandu Post. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ a b Synott, Mark (9 April 2015). "Elite Climbers to Blaze New Route up Everest: Climbing without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support, team tackles unclimbed line on Northeast Face". National Geographic Magazine. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ "Everest Season Begins as Icefall Doctors Fix Ropes". Gripped Magazine. 3 March 2021. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ "Progress on Everest Halts with Rope-Fixing Confusion". Gripped Magazine. 5 May 2016. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ Lambert, Katie (16 October 2019). "Out on a Ledge: Tangled. Confronting the knotty issue of fixed ropes". Climbing. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ Parks, Shoshi (28 February 2024). "Via Ferratas Are Finally Catching On in the United States". Smithsonian Magazine. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ Chelton, Neil (2024). "How To Climb a Big Wall – Fixing Pitches". VDiff Climbing. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ a b Wilkinsom, Freddie (29 May 2019). "Traffic jams are just one of the problems facing climbers on Everest". National Geographic Magazine. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
- ^ a b Synott, Mark (21 April 2015). "The Everest Moral Dilemma". National Geographic Magazine. Retrieved 10 May 2024.
Further reading[edit]
- Soles, Clyde; Powers, Phil (June 2003). Climbing: Expedition Planning. Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-0898867701.
- The Mountaineers (2018). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (9th ed.). Quiller Publishing. ISBN 978-1846892622.
External links[edit]
- Using fixed ropes, Andy Kirkpatrick (December 2008)
- Newcomers’ Guide: Fixed Ropes in Himalayan Climbing, ExplorersWeb (March 2022)
